目的 为破解传统宋锦纹样在现代包装设计转化中面临的核心难题,致力于构建理论解析与设计实践于一体的系统性转化路径,以推动非物质文化遗产的活态传承与现代创新应用。方法 首先,通过莫里斯符号学三分框架理论将宋锦八达晕纹样进行语义维度、语构维度和语用维度的深度解析,为可拓学物元模型提供基础变量,实现“符号结构→设计矛盾→可拓变换策略”的系统映射。其次,使用可拓学物元分析模型建立语义认知矛盾、语构适配矛盾和语用功能矛盾的量化指标,使原本“抽象的文化符号逻辑”可被量化、操作化并以可拓变换方法完成传统纹样向现代包装需求的精准适配。最后,提出从认知层面(关联现代生活)到形式层面(简化适配)再到功能层面(整合创新)的三维转化路径。结论 研究成功证实了双理论融合在传统纹样现代化转化中的有效性与科学性。不仅梳理出宋锦纹样的意义生成机制,更通过量化模型为设计决策提供了客观依据,为宋锦纹样的活态传承提供可操作的解决方案。
Abstract
To address the core challenges in adapting traditional Song brocade patterns for modern packaging design, the work aims to construct a systematic transformation pathway that integrates theoretical analysis with design practice, thereby promoting the living heritage and contemporary innovative application of this intangible cultural heritage. Firstly, the Morrisian triadic semiotic framework was employed to conduct an in-depth analysis of the Song brocade "Badayun" (Eight-Rays-Aureola) patterns across its semantic, syntactic, and pragmatic dimensions. This provided fundamental variables for the subsequent extenics model, establishing a systematic mapping from "semiotic structure" to "design conflicts" and finally to "extensible transformation strategies." Secondly, the extenics matter-element analysis model was utilized to establish quantitative indicators for three types of conflicts: semantic-cognitive, syntactic-adaptive, and pragmatic-functional. This process operationalized the otherwise "abstract logic of cultural symbols", making it quantifiable and actionable. Extensible transformation methods were then applied to achieve precise adaptation of traditional patterns to modern packaging requirements. Finally, a three-dimensional transformation path was proposed, progressing from the cognitive level (associating with modern life), through the formal level (simplification and adaptation), to the functional level (integration and innovation). The research successfully validates the effectiveness and scientific rigor of integrating semiotics and extenics for the modernization of traditional patterns. It not only clarifies the meaning-generation mechanism of Song brocade patterns but also provides an objective, quantitative basis for design decision-making, offering a practical and operable solution for the dynamic preservation and revitalization of Song brocade patterns.
关键词
符号学 /
可拓学 /
宋锦 /
现代包装设计
Key words
semiotics /
extenics /
Chinese Song brocade /
modern packaging design
{{custom_sec.title}}
{{custom_sec.title}}
{{custom_sec.content}}
参考文献
[1] 钱小萍. 中国宋锦[M]. 苏州: 苏州大学出版社, 2011.
QIAN X P.Chinese Song Brocade[M]. Suzhou: Soochow University Press, 2011.
[2] 赵丰, 苏淼. 中国历代丝绸艺术·清代[M]. 杭州: 浙江大学出版社出版, 2021.
ZHAO F, SU M.The Art of Chinese Silk Through the Ages: The Qing Dynasty[M]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang University Press, 2021.
[3] 杨安琪. 苏州宋锦纹样几何美研究[D]. 无锡: 江南大学, 2016.
YANG A Q.A Study on the Geometric Aesthetics of Suzhou Song Brocade Patterns[D]. Wuxi: Jiangnan University, 2016.
[4] 黄紫娟, 蒋秀翔. 从平面构成角度解析宋锦几何纹样[J]. 现代丝绸科学与技术, 2019, 34(3): 22-25.
HUANG Z J, JIANG X X.Analyzing the Geometric Patterns of Song Brocade from the Perspective of Plane Composition[J]. Modern Silk Science & Technology, 2019, 34(3): 22-25.
[5] 闫璐瑶. 浅谈宋锦几何化纹样设计形态的生成[J]. 轻纺工业与技术, 2022, 51(5): 51-53.
YAN L Y.On the Formation of Geometric Pattern Design in Song Brocade[J]. Light and Textile Industry and Technology, 2022, 51(5): 51-53.
[6] 吴志明, 杜程, 孙涛. 宋代节日赏赐宋锦的历史成因及文化内涵[J]. 服装学报, 2025, 10(3): 217-220.
WU Z M, DU C, SUN T.The Historical Causes and Cultural Connotations of Song Brocade as Festival Bestowals in the Song Dynasty[J]. Journal of Clothing Research, 2025, 10(3): 217-220.
[7] 王君, 王雪琴, 金子敏, 等. 宋锦工艺应用于个性化图案定制的可行性及设计案例[J]. 丝绸, 2018, 55(6): 59-63.
WANG J, WANG X Q, JIN Z M, et al.The Feasibility of Applying Song Brocade Craft in Customized Pattern Design and Related Case Studies[J]. Journal of Silk, 2018, 55(6): 59-63.
[8] 曲海洋, 眭建华. 两款仿宋锦织物的开发[J]. 棉纺织技术, 2019, 47(7): 51-54.
QU H Y, SUI J H.Development of Two Imitation Song Brocade Fabrics[J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2019, 47(7): 51-54.
[9] 岳昕, 黄紫娟, 黄雨沁, 等. 基于宋锦纹样的起绒小提花织物设计[J]. 棉纺织技术, 2020, 48(5): 71-74.
YUE X, HUANG Z J, HUANG Y Q, et al.Design of Small Jacquard Velvet Fabrics Based on Song Brocade Patterns[J]. Cotton Textile Technology, 2020, 48(5): 71-74.
[10] 王雨晴. 宋锦几何图案在装饰织物中的应用实践研究[D]. 杭州: 浙江理工大学, 2023.
WANG Y Q.Practical Research on the Application of Song Brocade Geometric Patterns in Decorative Fabrics[D]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, 2023.
[11] 王一哲. 织锦八达晕纹样设计研究[D]. 上海: 上海大学, 2023.
WANG Y Z.Research on the Design of the 'Badayun' Pattern in Brocade[D]. Shanghai: Shanghai University, 2023.
[12] 蒋郅杰. 宋锦纹样在宋锦文化园视觉形象设计中的应用研究[D]. 镇江: 江苏大学, 2023.
JIANG Z J.A Study on the Application of Song Brocade Patterns in the Visual Identity Design of the Song Brocade Cultural Park[D]. Zhenjiang: Jiangsu University, 2023.
[13] 张金宇, 李鸿宇, 朱剑鸣. 基于3D技术的宋锦小花楼织机数字虚拟复原及效果评价[J]. 丝绸, 2025, 62(1): 30-39.
ZHANG J Y, LI H Y, ZHU J M.Digital Virtual Restoration and Effect Evaluation of the Song Brocade Small Draw Loom Based on 3D Technology[J]. Journal of Silk, 2025, 62(1): 30-39.
[14] 苏燕, 刘畅, 华佳. 基于风格迁移算法的苏州宋锦图案的数字化设计研究[J]. 包装工程, 2025, 46(6): 286-293.
SU Y, LIU C, HUA J.Digital Design of Suzhou Song Brocade Patterns Based on Style Transfer Algorithm[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2025, 46(6): 286-293.
[15] 李诗蕴, 温润, 沈华, 等. 基于参数化生成的宋锦几何纹样创新设计[J]. 纺织科学与工程学报, 2025, 42(4): 89-94.
LI S Y, WEN R, SHEN H, et al.Innovative Design of Song Brocade Geometric Patterns Based on Parametric Generation[J]. Journal of Textile Science and Engineering, 2025, 42(4): 89-94.
[16] 张良林. 莫里斯符号学思想研究[D]. 南京: 南京师范大学, 2012: 50-62
ZHANG L L.A Study on Morris' Semiotic Thoughts[D]. Nanjing: Nanjing Normal University, 2012: 50-62
[17] 竺俊, 林竟路. 基于设计符号学的宋锦价值重建研究[J]. 设计, 2023, 36(4): 30-42.
ZHU J, LIN J L.Research on Value Reconstruction of Song Brocade Based on Design Semiotics[J]. Design, 2023, 36(4): 30-42.
[18] 吴志明, 杜程, 孙涛. 宋锦八达晕纹样嬗变及文化意蕴探析[J]. 丝绸, 2024, 61(5): 105-110.
WU Z, DU C, SUN T.Research on Study on the Evolution of the Song brocade Badayun pattern and its cultural implication[J]. Journal of Silk, 2024, 61(5): 105-110.
[19] 徐杜. 基于功能可见性包装设计的研究[D]. 武汉: 武汉理工大学, 2020.
XU D.Research on Packaging Design Based on Affordance[D]. Wuhan: Wuhan University of Technology, 2020.
[20] 张超. 基于可拓学的产品材质感性设计方法研究[D]. 广州: 广东工业大学, 2018.
ZHANG C.Research on Perceptual Design Method for Product Materials Based on Extenics[D]. Guangzhou: Guangdong University of Technology, 2018.
基金
广东省普通高校青年创新人才类项目(2021WQNCX032); 江苏省社会科学基金项目(25YSB016); 江苏省高校哲学社会科学研究项目(2022SJYB1484)