目的 以设计手段和模因论为视角,溯源辽代耳饰文化基因,开展辽代耳饰模因数据库构建与数字化创新设计,为辽代耳饰的现代发展提供资源库。方法 以辽代耳饰为例,通过形态推衍、模因抽离、历时及共时比较,对辽代耳饰元素进行提取分析,利用可视化图像技术对其造型、色彩、材质、纹样和寓意五项模因进行数据库呈现与标注研究,采用AHP层次分析法进行模因层次关系评价图谱建构及特征权重值排序,在确定合适的模因特征凝炼词后应用于设计转译之中。结果 建立辽代耳饰模因数据库,提出基于模因数据库构建的辽代耳饰数字化创新实践新思路,生成独具辽代耳饰特色的两款耳饰,即礼仪式耳饰和休闲式耳饰及其礼盒包装设计。结论 运用模因论有效实现对辽代耳饰文化基因的数据库构建及数字化设计应用,提出耳饰模因图谱构建方法和创新设计新路径,古与今的融合探究为耳饰设计开发提供了新模式。
Abstract
The work aims to trace the cultural genes of Liao earrings from the perspective of design methods and memetics, carry out the construction and digital innovation design of Liao earring meme database, and provide a resource base for the modern development of Liao earrings. Taking Liao earrings as examples, through morphological derivation, meme extraction, diachronic and syntemporal comparison, the elements of Liao earrings were extracted and analyzed, five memes of shape, color, material, pattern and meaning were presented and tagged in database by using visual image technology, and the hierarchical relationship evaluation map of memes was constructed and the feature weight value was sorted by AHP. After determining the appropriate memetic characteristic condensed words, it was applied to the design translation. A Liao earring memes database was established, and a new idea of digital innovation and practice of Liao earrings based on the meme database was proposed. Two kinds of earrings with unique Liao characteristics were generated, namely, ceremonial earrings and leisure earrings, as well as their gift box packaging design. Finally, the conclusion is drawn that the database construction and digital design application of Liao earring cultural gene can be effectively realized by using memetics, and the construction method of earring meme map and the new path of innovative design are proposed. The fusion exploration of ancient and modern provides a new model for earring design and development.
关键词
辽代耳饰 /
模因 /
数据库 /
数字化设计
Key words
Liao earrings /
memes /
database /
digital design
{{custom_sec.title}}
{{custom_sec.title}}
{{custom_sec.content}}
参考文献
[1] 李芽. 耳畔流光中国历代耳饰[M]. 北京:中国纺织出版社, 2015.
LI Y.Chinese Earpieces in the Past Dynasties[M]. Beijing:China Textile Press, 2015.
[2] 李芽. 中国古代耳饰研究[D]. 上海:上海戏剧学院, 2013.
LI Y.Study on Ancient Chinese Earpieces[D]. Shanghai:Shanghai Theatre Academy, 2013.
[3] 常乐. 东西文化交融视野下的辽代耳饰研究[J]. 南方文物, 2020(2):217-224.
CHANG L.Research on Liao Dynasty Earrings from the Perspective of the Integration of Eastern and Western Cultures[J]. Southern Cultural Relics, 2020(2):217-224.
[4] 吴群, 况宇翔, 谢娅婷. 非物质文化遗产模因探析[J]. 艺术百家, 2016, 32(6):229-231.
WU Q, KUANG Y X, XIE Y T.Analysis on Memes of Intangible Cultural Heritage[J]. Art Hundred, 2016, 32(6):229-231.
[5] 朱文霜, 崔鑫龙, 郑文俊. 模因论下侗族聚落景观导视系统的创新设计研究[J]. 包装工程, 2022, 43(22):231-240.
ZHU W S, CUI X L, ZHENG W J.Research on Innovative design of landscape guidance system of Dong Ethnic Group based on Memetics[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2022, 43(22):231-240.
[6] 邦克E. 辽代首饰:金翠流芳—梦蝶轩藏中国古代饰物[M]. 北京:文物出版社, 1999:215.
BUNKER E.Liao Dynasty Jewelry:Jin Cui Liu Fang -Dream Butterfly Pavilion Collection of Ancient Chinese Ornaments[M]. Beijing:Cultural Relics Publishing House, 1999:215.
[7] 粟绍巍, 张晶. 中印摩羯纹源流考辨[J]. 美术大观, 2021(12):118-124.
SU S W, ZHANG J.A Study on the Origin and Development of Capricorn Patterns in China and India[J]. Art Review, 2021(12):118-124.
[8] 常樱. 摩羯纹在中国的传播与兴衰[J]. 中国国家博物馆馆刊, 2020(3):126-135.
CHANG Y.The Spread and Rise and Fall of Capricorn Pattern in China[J]. Journal of the National Museum of China, 2020(3):126-135.
[9] 叶舒宪, 章米力, 柳倩月. 文化符号学大小传统新视野[M]. 西安:陕西师范大学出版社, 2023.
YE S X, ZHANG M L, LIU Q Y.Cultural Semiotics:New Perspectives on Traditional Perspectives[M]. Xi'an:Shaanxi Normal University Press, 2023. 10.
[10] 孙长初. 艺术考古学[M]. 重庆:重庆大学出版社, 2016. 06.
SUN C C.Art Archaeology[M]. Chongqing:Chongqing University Press, June 2016.
[11] 霍春晓. 模因理论视阈下的工艺美术创新路径研究[J]. 南京艺术学院学报(美术与设计版), 2025(2):192-196.
[12] 杨波. 基于杨柳青运河文化基因的民宿家具设计研究[J]. 家具与室内装饰, 2025, 32(2):100-105.
[13] 苟秉宸, 于辉, 李振方, 等. 半坡彩陶文化基因提取与设计应用研究[J]. 西北工业大学学报(社会科学版), 2011, 31(4):66-69.
GOU B C, YU H, LI Z F, et al.Research on Gene Extraction and Design Application of Banpo Painted Pottery[J]. Journal of Northwestern Polytechnical University (Social Science Edition), 2011, 31(4):66-69.
[14] 崔柳, 李雄. 共时性、历时性时空观于风景园林学设计研究的启示[J]. 中国园林, 2014, 30(9):63-66.
[15] 许晓东. 契丹人的金玉首饰[J]. 故宫博物院院刊, 2007(6):32-47.
XU X D.Gold and Jade Jewelry of the Khitan People[J]. Journal of the Palace Museum, 2007(6):32-47.
[16] 牟彪, 徐鑫, 陆展飞, 等. 基于模因理论-AHP的通道侗锦文化主题家具设计研究[J]. 林产工业, 2024, 61(9):74-80.
[17] 漆建武, 李巍, 张凯, 等. 遗产表征视域下黄河流域文化记忆建构与空间识别[J]. 干旱区资源与环境, 2024, 38(1):75-86.
QI J W, LI W, ZHANG K, et al.Construction and Spatial Recognition of Cultural Memory in the Yellow River Basin from the Perspective of Heritage Representation[J]. Journal of Arid Land Resources and Environment, 2024, 38(1):75-86.
[18] 周至禹. 造型基础/形态表象研究[M]. 杭州:浙江人民美术出版社, 2009.
ZHOU Z Y.Fundamentals of Modeling/Research on Form Representation[M]. Hangzhou:Zhejiang People's Fine Arts Publishing House, 2009.
[19] 耿卫东, 张一旸, 王靖滨, 等. 融合视觉认知的工程视图理解方法[J]. 计算机学报, 2001(5):536-543.
GENG W D, ZHANG Y Y, WANG J B, et al.Engineering View Understanding Method Integrating Visual Cognition[J]. Journal of Computer Science, 2001(5):536-543.
[20] 许春雷. 论艺术本体的物质性[J]. 大舞台, 2012(11):290.
XU C L.On the Materiality of Art Ontology[J]. Grand Stage, 2012(11):290.
[21] 李烨鑫. 仪式生产、符号象征与日常生活——武陵地区梯玛文化的三重维度[J]. 湖北民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版), 2024, 42(3):150-156.
LI Y X. Ritual Production, Symbolic Symbols,Daily Life:The Triple Dimensions of Tima Culture in Wuling Region[J]. Journal of Hubei University for Nationalities (Philosophy and Social Sciences Edition), 2024, 42(3):150-156.
[22] 常鑫, 薛小琪. 文化记忆视角下长城古村落模因图谱与数字化设计研究——以庄河村雕饰纹样为例[J]. 南京艺术学院学报(美术与设计), 2024(2):84-90.
CHANG X, XUE X Q.A Study on Meme Map and Digital Design of Ancient Great Wall Villages from the Perspective of Cultural Memory:A Case Study of Carved Patterns in Zhuanghe Village[J]. Journal of Nanjing University of the Arts (Fine Arts and Design), 2024(2):84-90.
[23] 吕光. 传承视角下朝鲜族传统家具的数据库呈现与创新设计[J]. 包装工程, 2023, 44(2):385-395.
LYU G.Database presentation and innovative design of Korean traditional furniture from the perspective of inheritance[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2019, 44(2):385-395.
[24] 刘俊喜, 古顺芳, 张海蛟, 等. 山西大同恒安街北魏墓(11DHAM13)发掘简报[J]. 文物, 2015, (1):13-21+1.
LIU J X, GU S F, ZHANG H J, et al. Brief report on the excavation of the Northern Wei Tomb (11DHAM13) in Hengan Street, Datong, Shanxi[J]. Cultural Relics, 2015, (1):13-21+1.
[25] 梁姝丹. 从辽代莲花童子金耳坠看契丹人的社会生活[J]. 辽金历史与考古, 2011, (0):326-331+6.
LIANG S D. The social life of the Khitan people from the golden earrings of Lotus Boy in Liao Dynasty[J]. Liao and Jin History and Archaeology, 2011, (0):326-331+6.
[26] 王天华, 杨宏. 模因论对社会文化进化的解释力[J]. 哈尔滨工业大学学报(社会科学版), 2006(6):128-130.
WANG T H, YANG H.The explanatory power of memetics to social and cultural evolution[J]. Journal of Harbin Institute of Technology (Social Sciences Edition), 2006(6):128-130.
[27] 张荣红, 徐婧竞. 辽代摩竭耳饰流行原因探析[J]. 装饰, 2022, (1):85-89.
ZHANG R H, XU J J.Analysis on the popular reasons of dried earrings in Liao Dynasty[J]. Decoration, 2022, (1):85-89.
[28] 江汝南, 董金华. 粤北瑶族服饰文化因子的提取与应用[J]. 包装工程, 2020 (4):341-346.
JIANG R N, DONG J H.Extraction and application of Yao Costume cultural Factors in Northern Guangdong[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2020 (4):341-346.
[29] 汪应洛. 系统工程[M]. 北京:机械工业出版社, 2003:124-130.
WANG Y L.System Engineering[M]. Beijing:China Machine Press, 2003:124-130.
[30] 常瑜, 刘宝顺, 田园. 基于层次分析法的扫地车造型模糊综合评价方法及应用[J]. 机械设计, 2017, 34(3):121-125.
CHANG Y, LIU B S, TIAN Y.Fuzzy Comprehensive Evaluation Method and Application of Sweeping Truck Modeling Based on Analytic Hierarchy Process[J]. Journal of Machine Design, 2017, 34(3):121-125.
[31] 靳开严, 陈竑. 基于AHP-FCE的辽瓷文化因子选取与应用研究[J]. 包装工程, 2025, 46(2):284-294.
JIN K Y, CHEN H.Research on selection and application of Liao Porcelain cultural Factors based on AHP-FCE[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2019, 46(2):284-294.
[32] 罗力弦, 洪玲. 感性工学设计[M]. 北京:清华大学出版社, 2015.
LUO L X, HONG L.Kansei Engineering Design[M]. Beijing:Tsinghua University Press, 2015.
[33] 刘琳琳, 周恩玉. 以杨柳青年画为例的大运河文化基因设计研究[J]. 包装工程, 2023, 44(24):319-327.
LIU L L, ZHOU E Y.Study on cultural gene design of the Grand Canal with Yang Liuqing New Year Painting as an example[J]. Packaging Engineering, 2023, 44(24):319-327.
[34] 李白杨, 白云, 詹希旎等. 人工智能生成内容(AIGC)的技术特征与形态演进[J]. 图书情报知识, 2023(1):66-74.
LI B Y, BAI Y, ZHAN X N et al. Technical characteristics and morphological evolution of Artificial Intelligence-Generated Content (AIGC)[J]. Library and Information Science, 2023(1):66-74.
[35] 牛晓霆, 刘祥源. 基于AIGC技术下圈椅数字化修复应用研究[J/OL]. 家具与室内装饰, 1-7[2025-03-13].
NIU X T, LIU X Y.Research on digital restoration of bottom chair based on AIGC technology[J/OL]. Furniture and Interior Decoration, 1-7[2025-03-13].
基金
2024年国家社科基金艺术学项目（24BG144）
PDF(19511 KB)
渝公网安备 50010702501717号